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總第145期 2018年9月 上一期 下一期

第八版 寰球天地

一次旅行

Two Days  in Puzhehei, Yunnan
在普者黑的兩天
寧波華外 薛洪波
      At the suggestion of Ben and Tina, we made a decision to enjoy the primitive Puzhehei, a fantastic resort to kill and beat summer heat. It was an absolute fun tour. 


a boat carried the ten of us to the cave, a typical part of the karst land formation. This region used to be under the sea, but now rises above water, forming karst caves and stone forests with lakes. Accordingly, it is universally acknowledged that Puzhehei is a smaller Guilin. And the bizarre stalactites and stalagmites which took billions of years to develop set our imagination loose, reminding of figures in the ancient legends and folk lore, some beneficent, others evil. 


The second day we went boating from the Fairy Cave to Puzhehei Village. Floating on the clean and clear mirror, we felt like birds in flight. The mountains reflected into the serene lake, lotuses dotted among them, wild ducks and drakes playing under the lotus leaves, and fishes rushing to and fro and diving up and down amongst the lotus stems. When meeting other boats, we would greet and photo each other though we were all strangers in a strange land. 


The boatman was a Sani minority man, dark, short but amiable but strong. His folks believe in the God of Mountain.Seemingly, they still follow the prehistoric customs and practice the primitive rituals. Actually, they live in harmony with nature and in awe of their ancestors. For the most part, they are still honest, credible and simple. I wonder how long they will stay the same, with the increasing invasion of the so-called advanced culture, that is, the commercial business drive. 


在本和蒂娜的建議下,我們決定去享受原始的普者黑,一個(gè)消暑消暑的好去處。這是一次非常有趣的旅行。

      一艘船載著我們十個(gè)人來(lái)到山洞,這是喀斯特陸地形成的典型地貌。這個(gè)地區(qū)過(guò)去是在海下,但現(xiàn)在上升到水之上,形成喀斯特洞穴和石林湖泊。因此,普者黑是一個(gè)較小的桂林,這是大家公認(rèn)的。古怪的鐘乳石和石筍歷經(jīng)數(shù)十億年的發(fā)展才使我們的想象力得到放松,使人想起古代傳說(shuō)和民間傳說(shuō)中的人物,有的仁厚,有的邪惡。
      第二天,我們從仙人洞劃船到蒲哲黑村。飄浮在清澈透明的鏡子上,我們感覺(jué)像鳥(niǎo)兒在飛翔。山巒映入寧?kù)o的湖中,蓮花點(diǎn)綴其中,野鴨和野鴨在荷葉下嬉戲,魚(yú)兒在荷葉間來(lái)回跳躍。當(dāng)我們遇見(jiàn)別的小船時(shí),我們會(huì)互相問(wèn)候,盡管我們都是陌生人。
      船夫是一個(gè)少數(shù)民族,黝黑,矮小,但藹可親、堅(jiān)毅。他信仰山岳之神,似乎仍然遵循史前習(xí)俗,實(shí)行原始儀式。事實(shí)上,他們與自然和諧相處,敬畏祖先。在大多數(shù)情況下,他們?nèi)匀徽\(chéng)實(shí)、可信和單純。我想知道,隨著所謂先進(jìn)文化的入侵,也就是商業(yè)文化的推動(dòng),他們還會(huì)保持多久。

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